Curiosities

Despite the fact that this year 2020 has been a very complicated year for everyone, the world of luxury and high-end watches has not stopped and throughout the year there have been many new features.

Although in many cases these novelties have been made to wait, in the case of Rolex, for example, delaying the launch of its novelties until September, due, among other things, to the cancellation of the Baseworld fair due to Covid 19, practically throughout the year. all the most important brands have presented news this year.

The list of news for 2020 is long, so we have made a small selection of the most outstanding news for us.

Omega Silver Snoopy 50th Anniversary

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 50th Anniversary

Introduced on October 5, this is a special edition Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, commemorating the award Omega received in 1970 for its support of the Apollo 11 lunar expedition. That year 1970 Omega was awarded the Silver Snoopy award. Omega prepared a beautiful special edition, in white and blue colors, with very special details and with a lot of history from that expedition. At NordWatches we wrote a special article about this watch that you can read here

41mm Rolex Submariner

On September 1, Rolex presented its novelties for 2020. This is not the first Rolex Submariner with a 41mm case, but in recent decades all Submariners were 40mm, therefore, this new Submariner was something very special, as we saw in the second-hand watch market, with some pieces almost doubling in value from the start. This Submariner also equips the new caliber 3230 which extends its power reserve to 70 hours. It was not the only novelty from Rolex, but it was the one that most caught our attention. You can read more in this article that we wrote about the Roles news for 2020.

Hamilton – Tenet

Hamilton Khaki Navy Tenet Special Edition

This special edition of the Hamilton Khaki Navy watch was presented in June. A limited edition of 888 pieces, matching the movie. One of the few great super productions that hit our theaters this year, by the hand of director Christopher Nolan. As fans of this great director, we could not leave this watch off the list. And besides, this special edition is beautiful and has a special packaging specifically designed by the designer of the film.

Tudor Black Bay 58 ‘Navy Blue’

In July Rolex made a declaration of intent presenting a new model for its Tudor watch brand. Until then it seemed that there would be no news from Rolex this year 2020.

This Black Bay 58 ‘Navy blue’ introduces blue dial and bezel, and blue NATO mail. This watch is a clear homage to the ‘Blue Snowflake’ Tudors of the 70s. Watches specially developed for the French Navy as a work watch.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Patek Philippe’s first release this year 2020 was this limited edition of the famous Calatrava. A special edition of just 1,000 units to commemorate the completion of its new production building located in Pan-les-Ouates.

The new Calatrava 6007A-001 stands out for its 40mm case and its wider polished steel bezel. A rare material in the Patek Philippe collections. A blue-gray dial with a central motif, sapphire crystal and white gold hands.

Here you can read an article that we wrote with the first novelties of the year from Patek Philippe.

It is nothing more than a small selection of novelties for this year 2020. Is there a watch that you miss? Tell us, what would be your selection?

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Luxury watches – Trends of the year 2020

15/12/2020

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The cold arrives, Christmas arrives, and with them, this year 2020 comes to an end. For most, great news, since this year 2020 has been a year, to say the least, ‘special’. Every year there are great events, but also great catastrophes. But never before has there been a single event that conditioned so many people for so long. Not at least since we have such a globalized and interconnected world.

Covid 19 has disrupted the plans we had for this year. It has caused us to cancel vacations, close businesses, and many, too many, lose loved ones. It has changed our priorities, our needs and our consumption habits. The impossibility of physically interacting has meant that many business models have suffered greatly, even having to close. Others have reinvented themselves and have discovered that in the world we live in, we no longer have the fear of yesteryear to buy online. The world of luxury watches and high-end watches has not been an exception and has suffered to a greater or lesser extent the peculiarities of this year 2020.

The closure of the factories caused demand to exceed supply, and consequently the prices of second-hand watches, especially some specific models, skyrocketed.

Without having global sales data for each of the manufacturers, watchmakers, specialized points of sale and online stores, we cannot talk about which watches have been the most sold or most requested. But if we can talk about our experience, what are the trends in luxury watches in this year 2020.

Throughout the year we have sold all kinds of makes and models. To mention a few: Audemars Piguet Offshore and Royal OAK, Breitling Navitimer, IWC Portuguese, Panerai Luminor, Patek Philippe Nautilus and Calatrava, and a long etc.

But, above all, from NordWatches we have sold the following 5 models of luxury watches.

Rolex Submariner Hulk

1.- Rolex Submariner Date

The most requested model and the most sold in this year 2020, without any doubt. The Date version of the Rolex Submariner, far above the No Date. In steel, ahead of any other material. Lots of ‘Hulk’ 116610LVs, from which the lawsuit has been triggered since Rolex’s September announcement to discontinue the model. There is also a lot of demand for the 126610LN, the new 41mm Submariner Date. And as always, the ‘vintage’ models, which do not seem to go out of style.

2.- Rolex GMT Master II

The Submariner Date is followed in sales and requests by another Rolex model, the GMT Master II. To a greater extent the ‘Pepsi’ models, but we have also sold quite a few 116710BLNR ‘Batman’ models. Some ‘Coke’ and even a ‘Tiger Eye’. As with the Submariner Date, our customers’ preference for these models is a steel finish.

3.- Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch

Third, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. Curiously, more models with plexiglass glass than sapphire. It is a watch that does not go out of style and this year has received a special version for the 50th anniversary of the Snoopy award that the watch received for its role in the mission of Apollo 11.

4.- Omega Seamaster

Fourth, and with a technical tie with the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, we have the Omega Seamaster. Different versions of this Seamaster, both Diver 300m 007, Regatta and special editions of James Bond. Since the famous agent 007 saw one in his movies, at least in NordWatches the Omega Seamaster is usually one of the most requested models.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’

5.- Tudor Black Bay 58

Finally, in the top 5 of the best-selling and / or requested models, we have the Tudor Black Bay 58. Both models with a NATO strap and with a steel bracelet. It is a watch that most people request us, that is not a Rolex or an Omega. Interestingly, almost all of our sales for this Tudor BB 58 are to clients in Nordic countries, such as Sweden, Finland or Norway.

This is our top, the year’s trends in luxury watches from our experience in sales and requests this year. This does not mean that these brands and models are the best sellers globally or the best watches.

Tell us, what are the most interesting top watches for you in this year 2020?

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Lewis Hamilton loses legal battle against Hamilton Watch Company

20/11/2020

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Year 2017. For Lewis Hamilton it promised to be a good year. Nico Rosberg had retired from Formula 1, leaving him ‘alone’ to fight for the title of Formula 1 world champion. From here, and thanks to the superiority of the Mercedes car, 4 more world championships would come, 7 in total. 2017 was the beginning of a good period in the life of Lewis Hamilton … or not?

In 2017 Lewis Hamilton decided to take legal action against the watch company ‘Hamilton Watch Company’, of the Swatch Group, which sells watches under the trade name ‘Hamilton’. The pilot accused the watch company of misappropriating his image.

The European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO) ruled in favor of the watch company. The ruling says the watch company has been operating under the Hamilton trade name since 1892, long before Lewis Hamilton was born. In addition, the ruling says that “Hamilton” is a very common surname in English-speaking countries.

It also adds that there is no natural right for a person to have their own name registered as a trademark, as this would infringe the rights of third parties.

Lewis Hamilton’s company, 44IP, was attempting to register the Lewis Hamilton ‘trademark for a number of products, such as jewelry, watches and smartwatches.

In this case, the attorneys for Hamilton Watch Company objected, considering that intellectual property rights were infringed.

‘We do not consider it appropriate or necessary to facilitate the market strategies and marketing plans of a competitor, who intends to enter the market with a brand that is practically identical to our client’s well-known previous brands, offering products that are also identical.’

In the end, Lewis Hamilton’s plans are thwarted by losing the legal battle.

Hamilton Watch Company

Hamilton – Tenet

The watch company began its journey in 1892, in the United States. In 1966, Hamilton bought the Swiss company Buren Watch Company. For 3 years it continues to manufacture its watches in its factory in Pennsylvania, in the United States, but begins to use the movements manufactured in the Swiss facilities by Buren. By 1969 Hamilton had already closed its facilities in the United States and had moved all its production to the Buren facilities in Switzerland.

In 1974 the Swatch Group acquired the Hamilton watch company.

Today Hamilton continues to operate and manufacture luxury and high-end watches. In the summer of this year 2020 Hamilton released a special edition due to his collaboration with Christopher Nolan, for his film Tenet. It is a limited edition in 2 finishes that differ slightly, only in the color of the tip of the second hand: red or blue. This makes sense after watching the movie.

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Clocks made of meteorites

17/11/2020

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Yes, watches made with pieces of meteorite. It sounds like science fiction, but it is much more common than it may seem. Over the years many luxury watch brands have used pieces of meteorites to make the dials for their watches.

Obtaining and using pieces of meteorites is more frequent than it may seem. Over millions of years many meteorites have struck the earth, and continue to do so. Most are very small pieces, and not all have a composition suitable for use in watchmaking.

First meteorites

Most clocks with meteorite spheres have come from 2 large meteorites that hit the earth millions of years ago: the Gibeonmeteorite, in Namibiaand the Muonionalustameteorite, in Sweden. Both meteorites were large in size and their fragments as they entered the atmosphere spread out over large surface areas, hundreds of kilometers long.

The first fragment of the Gibeon meteorite was discovered in 1836. Since then dozens of fragments weighing between 100 and 500 kg have been found.

The first fragment of the Muonionalusta meteorite was found in 1910. As far as it is known, around 40 fragments have been found to date.

These 2 large meteorites are basically made up of Iron and Nickel. These meteorites have crystallized structures throughout millions and millions of years of cooling in space. These crystals have different resistance to acid or heat, and that is why these characteristic patterns, known as Widmanstätten structures, that these meteorites have arise.

To make the dial, thin layers of the meteorite are cut for treatment. Because the patterns are random, all the dials on these meteorite watches are different. This makes each watch with a meteorite dial not only carrying a tiny trillion-year-old spatial fragment, but also unique, as no two dials are alike.

Clocks made of meteorites

Rolex

Rolex GMT Master II Meteorite

As almost always, Rolex is at the forefront of the use of new materials in watches. Although they weren’t the first to use a meteorite fragment in the manufacture of a watch, they did popularize its use when they made the first Rolex Daytona with a meteorite dial in 2004. They used fragments of the Gibeon meteorite from Namibia to make the first high-end watch with a meteorite dial.

In 2019 they presented the Rolex GMT Master II ‘Meteorite’, the first Rolex model that is not a Daytona or Day Date to have a version with a meteorite dial. The watch is made of white gold, in addition to the meteorite dial, and has an official price of € 38,000.

Despite the fact that since 1950 the Gibeon meteorite fragments have been protected by Namibian laws and cannot be traded, Rolex still has reserves of this meteorite that it acquired previously.

Omega

Omega also created its own meteorite dial watch. Given his Speedmaster’s relationship to space missions, it was clear that the watch chosen had to be a SpeedmasterMoonwatch. They created the Gray Side of the moon variant, made of ceramic and 18-karat sedna gold, and a meteorite dial. As in the case of Rolex watches, this Omega also has a dial made from fragments of the Gibeon meteorite from Namibia. This watch has an official price of € 14,700.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

In 2015 Jaeger-LeCoultre presented its master calendar with a dial made from a meteorite fragment. The watch has 2 variants, one made of steel and the other in rose gold. This watch uses a dial made from a fragment of the Muonionalusta meteorite from Sweden.

Other brands such as Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Zenith, or Cartier have also made watches using different meteorite fragments.

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Why are Rolexes so expensive?

10/11/2020

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Why are Rolexis so expensive? First of all, we have to understand that we are talking about the most prestigious watch brand in the world. And yet, if we compare it to other brands like Patek Philippe, they can even seem cheap.

Rolex watches do not have automated mass production, they are assembled by hand piece by piece and each of the watches undergoes different tests to guarantee the reliability and quality of each one of them. More than watches, they are pieces of craftsmanship.

Logically, when manufactured in this way, the units that Rolex manufactures per year are limited. Even at their price, the demand exceeds the supply.

Manufacturing materials

Rolexuses only the best materials in the manufacture of its watches. For example, use 904L stainless steel instead of the usual 316L. Rolex started using this steel in 1985. 904L steel is much more expensive, but it is also harder and more resistant to corrosion, but it costs more to work with. Rolex had to adapt all its machinery to be able to adjust the production of watches to the use of this metal.

Although in an object such as a watch, the difference between one type of steel and another is difficult to appreciate, the cost of working and making watches with it is much higher. Competitor watches use 316L steel so that only in material there is a higher cost in comparison.

Rolex Daytona – 904L Steel and Gold

The obsession with working with the best materials leads Rolex to manufacture the gold that it uses in its watches. The gems used are selected by specialist jewelers. They have a large team of gemologists who purchase and prepare the diamonds and gemstones that are later used in Rolex watches.

Research, manufacturing and certification processes

Rolex Submariner Date 50th Anniversary

Rolexes are made entirely in Switzerland, where labor is more expensive. They are not manufactured on an automated assembly line, they are assembled by hand piece by piece, so manufacturing times are longer.

Rolex has Research and Development laboratories where they study new manufacturing techniques, innovations, develop new models, etc. Studies are made on the metals they use, the oils and lubricants, etc. Rolex spends a lot of time developing new movements.

After the watches are manufactured, Rolex itself performs various inspections and tests on the watches to ensure their quality and precision. They are tested for water resistance, as all Rolex watches are water resistant. Some models like the Submariner up to 300 meters. Others like the Sea Dweller Deepsea, up to 3,000. For these tests Rolex uses special pressurized water tanks.

The entire manufacturing process, from research, development, manufacturing and assembly to subsequent quality tests are done in-house. Rolex does not outsource any part of the process, so manufacturing costs increase, but in this way Rolex ensures that everything is done according to processes and quality standards.

All Rolexes are mechanical watches and only use their own movements. Movements that he is constantly developing, improving and researching.

Conclusion, are Rolexes that expensive?

All these factors mark the price of each watch. You can’t compare a Rolex watch to a $ 100 quartz watch. Yes, they both tell the time, but the materials, manufacturing times, quality, prestige, and renown behind each Rolex watch mean that more than a watch, Rolexes are pieces of craftsmanship. A Rolex is a luxury watch, a ‘work of art’, which not only does not lose value over time, but will probably increase it, especially in the most coveted models. So, are Rolexes really that expensive?

Here you can find more information about Rolex

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Rolex, Patek and Chopard say goodbye to Baselworld

14/09/2020

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The “Baselworld Watch and Jewelry Show” is an annual international watch and jewelry fair, held in the city of Basel, Switzerland. The fair is held in the Messe Basel building, and brings together more than 2,100 participating brands of approximately 45 different nationalities. The fair usually receives approximately 100,000 visitors annually.

History

In 1917 the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel was inaugurated. The first fair was a demonstration of the industrial development of Switzerland, and in which there was a small space for the watch industry. By 1931, the part of the fair dedicated to watches and jewelery had its own pavilion and was renamed Schweizer Uhrenmesse (Swiss Watch Show). In the 1970s the fair invited manufacturers from other countries than Swiss. In 1983 the fair adopted the name of Basel for the first time, and in 2003 it was renamed BaselWorld.

In 2018 BaselWorld announced an agreement with the other great fair in the world of luxury watches, ‘Watches & Wonders’ (formally known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH). The statement announces an agreement between the fairs to coordinate the dates of their celebrations between 2020 and 2024.

This year 2020 has been the first time that the fair has not been held, due to the global pandemic of Covid 19.

The fall of Baselworld

In 2018, the Swatch Group announced that from 2019 it would not attend Baselworld. The Swatch Group includes brands such as Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Harry Winston, Longines, Omegaor Tissot. This same year 2018 had seen how the fair lost more than 600 exhibitors. Other brands later joined the abandonment of the fair, such as Breitlingor Seiko.

Despite this very hard blow, the fair continued to feature the largest brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, …), and although with one day less, the fair continued in 2019.

But as we already know, 2020 is being a difficult year. Covid 19 broke into our lives and in March 2020 the planet was paralyzed. The fair that was to take place in April was canceled.

And that’s when the announcement for Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chaneland Tudorarrives. En abril de 2020, anuncian que se retiran de Baselworld y organizarían su propia feria en abril de 2021.

Reasons for the fall

When something like this happens, it is without a doubt for more than one reason. But the main reason for the decline of the most prestigious fair can be summed up in one word: Greed.

Going to the fair has a great cost for exhibitors. The fees to participate in the fair were getting higher and higher. For everything, you had to hire staff from the fair itself, assembly of stands, infrastructures, even the WiFi had to be that of the fair itself. Hotels, restaurants and others increased their rates every year, reaching 500% more than in the days before or after the fair. In addition, more and more, you had the obligation to advance the money and hire the hotel room for the entire duration of the fair.

These details were becoming increasingly difficult to handle, both for exhibitors and visitors, who, in a globalized world and with so much online presence, saw less and less need to attend a fair like this. When a new model is announced, the information is available up to the minute on the internet, so attending launches in person is less and less necessary. And if the cost is so high, all the more reason not to go.

With the cancellation of the fair in 2020, the management of Baselworld makes its final and fateful decision. They unilaterally decide to ‘postpone’ the 2020 fair to January 2021, without consulting the brands.

And here is the problem. They do not cancel the fair, which would mean returning millionaire amounts that exhibitors had already paid, if not they postpone it, so that their intention is not to return the money.

This for small brands trying to break through is a disaster. Therefore, the option of reimbursing the money is proposed, to which the Baselword responds with several options, in which in any case it would reimburse a small amount, leaving the rest for the celebration of the fair in 2021.

These measures to brands like Rolex do not sit well at all, and they let the management of the baselworld know: Either the full rates are returned or this may be the end of the Baselworld. Furthermore, the celebration of the fair in January is not an appropriate date for watch companies and it breaks with the coordination with the “Watches & Wonders” fair of holding both on April dates.

The management of Baselworld does not back down and insists on its decision.

And this is when the statement from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Chopard arrives. Those who had been the biggest defenders of Baselworld, above their own interests and out of historical loyalty to the fair, decide to leave and announce that from 2021 they will show their annual novelties at their own fair, in line with the Watches dates. & Wonders Geneva, at the Palexpo exhibition center.

Will this be the goodbye to the largest watch and jewelry fair of the 20th and 21st century? We will see it in 2021, but of course things are not looking good for Baselworld. And, as we usually say in Spain, greed breaks the bag.

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Geneva Seal quality certificate

21/08/2020

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Geneva Seal

The Geneva Seal (Sello de Ginebra in Spanish or Poinçon de Genève in French) is an exclusive quality certificate for movements developed in the Swiss region of the Canton of Geneva.

The first statute of the Geneva Seal was created on November 6, 1886. It was created to protect and preserve the reputation of watches created in the Canton of Geneva. It was established that only watches developed and manufactured in the Canton of Geneva could qualify for this quality certificate.

In addition to certifying that watches have been manufactured in the Canton of Geneva, watch movements must pass 12 stages / conditions in order to be certified. The body in charge of evaluating watches is TIMELAB (an organization that is composed of a certification center (including COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) and a center for research and development).

If the watch movement passes all 12 criteria, the watch may bear the stamp mark engraved on the movement.

Currently the brands that usually certify their movements with the Geneva Seal are: Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.

Patek Philippe and Geneva Seal

For 123 years Patek Philippe has been the reference and the greatest defender of the Geneva Seal. But in 2009 he decided to stop certifying his watch movements with the Geneva Seal and created his own quality certificate, the Patek Philippe Seal. The seal is represented by a double P emblem.

Patek Philippe decides to create its own seal of quality for not being in accordance with the current standards of the Geneva Seal. Despite the fact that over the years the criteria of the certificate have been updated and adapted to modern watches, the changes came too late.

Apparently, ‘newly’ arrived brands signed up to use the certificate, such as Cartier or Roger Dubuis, apparently they did not sit too well either. Patek Philippe wanted to toughen the demands of the stamp, but in the face of the refusal by the Geneva Stamp offices, he decided to create his own stamp. In this way, the standards that Patek Philippe adopts go further and are more demanding.

Patek Philippe certifies that its watches with a caliber greater than 20mm have a deviation of less than -3 to +2 seconds / day. For those with a caliber less than 20mm, the deviation should not exceed -5 to +4 seconds / day. For calibers with a tourbillonthe requirement is only -2 to +1 seconds / day.

The standard applied by Patek Philippe for its watches is stricter than the one applied by the COSC in the certification of watches (Rolex is the maximum exponent of the watches certified by the COSC), but it is Patek Philippe itself that gives itself to itself. Its own certificate guaranteeing these standards.

Patek Philippe Seal

And what about Rolex?

Rolex is another of the brands that do not certify their watches with the Geneva Seal, either by their own decision or by product philosophy. In addition, Rolex movements are manufactured in Bienne, so in principle they would not comply with the obligation to manufacture them within the Canton of Geneva.

Rolex certifies its watches with the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, created in 1973. It is the largest laboratory dedicated to the certification of watches in the world. Rolex is by far the brand that has certified the most watches with the COSC. The certificate guarantees that the watch has a deviation of less than -4 to +6 seconds / day. Watches that meet this minimum deviation of -4 to +6 seconds / day are certified as ‘Chronometers’ and can have it engraved on their dial. Other brands such as Omega or Breitling also certify their watches with the COSC. Although COSC is the largest laboratory in the world for the certification of watches and certifies one million watches every year, they represent 3% of the watches manufactured annually in Switzerland.

Genève written on the dial

Regardless of the Geneva Seal, some watches have Genèvewritten on their dial. To be able to include Genève on the dial, the watch must be manufactured entirely in Switzerland, and at least 50% of its manufacture must be made in the Canton of Geneva. The Bureau de contrôle des Montres de Genève is the body in charge of certifying and validating the use of this inscription on the watch.

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The Covid 19 and luxury watches

05/06/2020

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The Covid 19 and luxury watches

The coronavirus (Covid 19) has paralyzed the world. The economic impact worldwide is going to be very hard. Little by little we are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, returning to normal and reopening business, but without the certainty of what will come. The factories reopen their production little by little, with exceptional security measures. But, there are no guarantees that we will not be forced to close again due to the possibility of outbreaks. Until there is a vaccine or the contagion rate worldwide is drastically reduced, we will not fully return to ‘normal’.

Given this uncertainty, markets suffer and the world of luxury and high-end watches are no exception.

The Swiss watch industry returns to work little by little. Despite the fact that in Switzerland the coronavirus has not hit as hard as in other countries, most factories decided to close their doors for security.

In mid-May, the large Swiss brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, etc.) were already reopening the production of watches, progressively and with reduced equipment.

Big fairs like Baselworld, which was to be held at the end of April, had to be postponed. Even the new scheduled date, January 2021, has been canceled for the time being.

Brands like Patek Philippe or Rolex, announced that they were postponing all their news for 2020, so there will be no new models at the moment.

Many questions and few answers

Many unknowns and atypical situations for a sector that is usually very stable. The worldwide stock of high-end watches has decreased dramatically and although the factories have reopened, they do so at a lower percentage of their production capacity.

2020 is going to be a very bad year for the big luxury watch brands, but what about the second-hand market?

In an article on the Chrono 24 website regarding Covid 19, a world reference in the online sale of luxury watches, we can see that despite the fact that the market suffered when the global pandemic situation was declared, currently it seems that the situation is is normalizing.

In fact, according to this article, and always based on their statistical data, large buyers are taking advantage of this situation to invest. Faced with a more than certain lack of stock of new watches, demand for second-hand watches is likely to increase in the coming months.

In addition, in the absence of news from the major brands, the demand will focus on the great classics.

In conclusion, this can be a great time to invest in high-end watches. Take a look at our stock, and if you do not find what you are looking for, contact us, we can surely help you!

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Chopard L.U.C. Engine One ‘Tourbillon’

13/05/2020

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There is a very special relationship between the world of motor and high-end watches. Many special editions of watches were inspired by the motor world, especially in competition. Watches designed by and for racing drivers. Watches that share manufacturing materials such as steel, titanium, carbon, etc. And there are many similarities between the machinery of a mechanical watch and the engine of a racing car. Polished steel, precision, performance, unique features that give character and personality to each other.

This results in watches like this Chopard L.U.C. Titanium Engine One Tourbillon that we are going to talk about today. A limited edition of only 150 pieces. 150 watches symbolizing the 150th anniversary of the brand created by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860 (the watch was manufactured in 2010).

Chopard L.U.C. Engine One Tourbillon Titanium Limited Edition of 150 units

Chopard designed this watch to resemble a high-performance engine block. It has a very smart box design. The exterior dimensions make it a 35.4mm wide by 44mm high rectangle, although the bulging ends give the dial a much rounder appearance.

Made entirely of titanium, the watch has polished surfaces on the top and bottom, with satin-finished center sections. It is an incredibly light case, a presence that images simply cannot adequately convey.

The movement doubles as the dial, and has two textured vertical stripes that look like the top of a large-displacement engine. The L.U.C 1TRM movement is manually wound and is made and designed internally by Chopard. It has an indicator that looks like a fuel reserve indicator, which marks the 60 hours of energy reserve available. It is also among a rare breed of COSC stopwatch certified “Tourbillon” movements, making it simply look like a high-performance engine.

But, perhaps you are wondering, what is the Tourbillon?

The Tourbillon (French Whirlwind) is a clockwork movement created in 1795 by the watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet. It was developed to compensate for the irregular effect that gravity produces on the flywheel and the escapement wheel when the watch remains at rest in the same position for a certain time, especially on pocket watches. It consists of a mechanism that rotates a cage-shaped frame (usually once a minute) on its axis, on which the watch’s steering wheel and exhaust are mounted.

With the rotation of said cage-shaped frame, the effect produced by the force of gravity on the flywheel / exhaust assembly does not always concentrate in the same direction, averaging. This increases the precision of the watch mechanism.

Given the complexity of the mechanism, some brands were not initially able to carry out such a structure, so they were forced to buy the workshops they were already producing for their own products.
Currently, a watch equipped with such a mechanism can be effectively developed only by a few specialized factories.

In 1980 a Tourbillon was first mounted on a wristwatch. Originally conceived as a device to improve precision, Tourbillons are currently included in some high-end modern watches as an exclusive item. The mechanism is usually visible through a window made through the sphere, showing its operation.

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Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ ref. 1680

12/12/2019

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We could be talking about one of the first Rolex watches to consider Vintage. The Rolex Submariner 1680, known as ‘Red Submariner’ because the word Submariner is printed in red, is one of the most popular and sought-after watches among Rolex collectors.

Rolex began production of the ‘Red Submariner’ ref. 1680 in the year 1969. He was the successor of the Submariner ref. 5513, and its production began 16 years later than that of the first Submariner of 1953.

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ 1680 with date and magnifying lens

First Submariner with date

The ‘Red Submariner’ was the first Submariner to bring the date function. A small window at ‘3 o’clock ‘with a Cyclops magnification lens fixed on its plexiglass glass. By adding this new function to the Submariner, Rolex had to modify the movement. The watch brought the Caliber 1575 inside, which was basically the same as the Caliber 1570 but with the addition of the date function.

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ 1680

The first versions of the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 had the label ‘SUBMARINER’ written in red, hence its nickname ‘Red Submariner’. This was the case until 1973, when Rolex changed the color of the letters ‘SUBMARINER’ that became white. As a result, the Rolex ref. 1680 between 1969 and 1973, with the letters ‘SUBMARINER’ in red became a collector’s item.

Seven variants of the Rolex Submariner 1680

For Rolex collectors it is a really special watch. Not only because of the curiousness of the letters in red, but because, there are 7 variants of this Submariner 1680! They are identified as Mark I to Mark VIII (this adds up to 8 variations, but Mark II and Mark III are classified together due to their similarities).

Mark I, II and III first brought the depth indicated in meters after the red letters of ‘SUBMARINER’.

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ Mark I to III

From Mark IV to VI the depth information is modified to first indicate the depth in ‘feet’.

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ Mark IV to VI

From the Mark VII the letters ‘Submariner’ become white.

Rolex Submariner 1680 Mark VII to VIII

The 1680 Submariner came with the bezel inserts in what we now call ‘Fat Font’, that is, with the thickest numbers. The problem with these bezels is that they tend to fade and Rolex replaced these bezels with service bezels with ‘Thin Font’.

Finding a ‘Red Submariner’ with ‘Fat Font‘ is therefore complicated, but these are the rarest and most coveted of all.

At NordWatches we have a Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ watch for sale. Do not miss this unique opportunity to get a watch as special as this one!

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