Rolex, Patek and Chopard say goodbye to Baselworld

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Baselworld

The “Baselworld Watch and Jewelry Show” is an annual international watch and jewelry fair, held in the city of Basel, Switzerland. The fair is held in the Messe Basel building, and brings together more than 2,100 participating brands of approximately 45 different nationalities. The fair usually receives approximately 100,000 visitors annually.

History

In 1917 the first Schweizer Mustermesse Basel was inaugurated. The first fair was a demonstration of the industrial development of Switzerland, and in which there was a small space for the watch industry. By 1931, the part of the fair dedicated to watches and jewelery had its own pavilion and was renamed Schweizer Uhrenmesse (Swiss Watch Show). In the 1970s the fair invited manufacturers from other countries than Swiss. In 1983 the fair adopted the name of Basel for the first time, and in 2003 it was renamed BaselWorld.

In 2018 BaselWorld announced an agreement with the other great fair in the world of luxury watches, ‘Watches & Wonders’ (formally known as Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH). The statement announces an agreement between the fairs to coordinate the dates of their celebrations between 2020 and 2024.

This year 2020 has been the first time that the fair has not been held, due to the global pandemic of Covid 19.

The fall of Baselworld

In 2018, the Swatch Group announced that from 2019 it would not attend Baselworld. The Swatch Group includes brands such as Blancpain, Breguet, Glashütte Original, Harry Winston, Longines, Omegaor Tissot. This same year 2018 had seen how the fair lost more than 600 exhibitors. Other brands later joined the abandonment of the fair, such as Breitlingor Seiko.

Despite this very hard blow, the fair continued to feature the largest brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, …), and although with one day less, the fair continued in 2019.

But as we already know, 2020 is being a difficult year. Covid 19 broke into our lives and in March 2020 the planet was paralyzed. The fair that was to take place in April was canceled.

And that’s when the announcement for Rolex, Patek Philippe, Chopard, Chaneland Tudorarrives. En abril de 2020, anuncian que se retiran de Baselworld y organizarían su propia feria en abril de 2021.

Reasons for the fall

When something like this happens, it is without a doubt for more than one reason. But the main reason for the decline of the most prestigious fair can be summed up in one word: Greed.

Going to the fair has a great cost for exhibitors. The fees to participate in the fair were getting higher and higher. For everything, you had to hire staff from the fair itself, assembly of stands, infrastructures, even the WiFi had to be that of the fair itself. Hotels, restaurants and others increased their rates every year, reaching 500% more than in the days before or after the fair. In addition, more and more, you had the obligation to advance the money and hire the hotel room for the entire duration of the fair.

These details were becoming increasingly difficult to handle, both for exhibitors and visitors, who, in a globalized world and with so much online presence, saw less and less need to attend a fair like this. When a new model is announced, the information is available up to the minute on the internet, so attending launches in person is less and less necessary. And if the cost is so high, all the more reason not to go.

With the cancellation of the fair in 2020, the management of Baselworld makes its final and fateful decision. They unilaterally decide to ‘postpone’ the 2020 fair to January 2021, without consulting the brands.

And here is the problem. They do not cancel the fair, which would mean returning millionaire amounts that exhibitors had already paid, if not they postpone it, so that their intention is not to return the money.

This for small brands trying to break through is a disaster. Therefore, the option of reimbursing the money is proposed, to which the Baselword responds with several options, in which in any case it would reimburse a small amount, leaving the rest for the celebration of the fair in 2021.

These measures to brands like Rolex do not sit well at all, and they let the management of the baselworld know: Either the full rates are returned or this may be the end of the Baselworld. Furthermore, the celebration of the fair in January is not an appropriate date for watch companies and it breaks with the coordination with the “Watches & Wonders” fair of holding both on April dates.

The management of Baselworld does not back down and insists on its decision.

And this is when the statement from Rolex, Patek Philippe and Chopard arrives. Those who had been the biggest defenders of Baselworld, above their own interests and out of historical loyalty to the fair, decide to leave and announce that from 2021 they will show their annual novelties at their own fair, in line with the Watches dates. & Wonders Geneva, at the Palexpo exhibition center.

Will this be the goodbye to the largest watch and jewelry fair of the 20th and 21st century? We will see it in 2021, but of course things are not looking good for Baselworld. And, as we usually say in Spain, greed breaks the bag.

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New Rolex 2020 models

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New Rolex 2020 models

We finally have here the Rolex news for this 2020. A new 2020 Rolex Submariner (ref. 124060), new 2020 Rolex Sky-Dweller (ref. 326238), new 2020 Rolex Datejust models and new 2020 Rolex Oyster Perpetualmodels.

Every time Rolexreleases new models its effects are noticeable in the watch market. In 2016 it launched the new Daytona (ref. 116500) at a price of € 12,000 P.V.P approximately. Today you can find them for approximately € 26,000. In 2018 it was the new Rolex GMT Master II ‘Pepsi’ in stainless steel that, as soon as it was launched, doubled its retail price in the markets and today they cost even more.

The new models that Rolex launches each year are very difficult to come by, because production is always limited and demand is very high.

 

Rolex Submariner 2020 and Rolex Submariner Date 2020

Rolex Submariner 2020 and Rolex Submariner Date 2020

New Rolex Submariner 124060 models

This year 2020 Rolex launches a new model of the Submariner. It goes on the market with a price of € 7,700. But considering its new features and the current market situation due to Covid 19, getting the new Submariner will be as difficult as seeing a unicorn. The production of all watch manufacturers has been greatly diminished due to the effects of the pandemic, so the units available will be even more limited. Unless you have a good contact with an official Rolex dealer, it will be very difficult to get one. But, what news does this new Submariner bring?

The first and great novelty is that the case becomes 41mm. In recent decades all Submariners have been 40mm, so this change will already delight collectors. The bracelet has also been modified making it a bit wider. It seems that Rolex wants to adapt to the current tastes of the market, which are looking for watches a little larger. Not only have they made a watch somewhat larger, but they have also modified the shapes of the case and the bracelet, making it fit better on the wrist. The new Submariner comes with the black dial and black Cerachrom rotating bezel and matches the new caliber 3230 which extends the power reserve to 70 hours.

The new Submariner Date (ref. 126610LN), also 41mm, comes equipped with the caliber 3235 for the first time. This change will extend the power reserve to 70 hours. It goes on the market at a P.V.P price of € 8,700.

Rolex has also launched a Submariner Date in yellow gold and steel (ref. 126613LB) with a blue Cerachrom bezel and a blue dial. A Submariner Date (ref. 126610LV) with the black dial and green bezel (there hasn’t been such a combination since the 50th anniversary model introduced in 2003). Finally, a Submariner Date (ref. 126619LB) in white gold, with a black dial and blue bezel.

Rolex has also presented other models for this 2020.

New Rolex Sky-Dweller 2020

New Rolex Sky-Dweller 2020

New Rolex Sky-Dweller 326238 models

The new 42mm Sky-Dweller is made of yellow gold and comes with a black dial and a black rubber strap. There will also be models in rose gold with the brown dial or the white dial. It is one of Rolex’s most complicated watches and the first classic watch to receive the high-performance elastomer strap that Rolex calls Oysterflex. It comes with the caliber 9001 which has the feature of indicating 2 time zones, a date window, a month indicator and an annual calendar.

Rolex Datejust

Rolex has presented 4 new models of the Rolex Datejust. The first will come with a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds and an auberginedial with a sun finish and decorated with the Roman numeral VI set with diamonds.

The other three modalities present, respectively, a mint green dial with a sun-type finish, white lacquered or dark gray with a sun-type finish, and are fitted with a fluted bezel made of 18-carat white gold. The hands and the indices or Roman numerals of these four new modalities are also in 18-carat white gold. Light reflections on the lugs and sides of the case highlight the refined shapes of its 31mm diameter Oyster case.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Rolex has also unveiled the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual watches. The range is enriched with a new model, the Oyster Perpetual 41, and with versions of the Oyster Perpetual 36 featuring luminous colored dials. Reflections of light on the flanks of the case highlight the shape of its Oyster case, made of Oystersteel steel, respectively 41 mm or 36 mm in diameter and topped with a domed bezel.

You can check the availability of these new Rolex 2020 models on our website.

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Rebellion Timepieces – NordWatches Brand Series

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Rebellion Timepieces

Most people, when we talk about luxury watches or high-end watches, automatically think of Rolex, Omega or Patek Philippe. But there are many good watch brands that are unknown to the vast majority. Brands that manufacture watches of tremendous quality, and that, if they had the reputation of others, their models would be highly demanded and valued.

For this reason, from NordWatches we are going to bring you a series of articles talking about these watch brands, from the best known to the least known.

Today we are going to talk about … Rebellion Timepieces

The Rebellion Timepieces brand was born in 2008 by its CEO Steve Clerici. Rebellion is based in Lonay, in the canton of Vaud, in the middle of Switzerland.

After working in the watch industry for many years, in 2008 he decided to partner with a lifelong friend who shared his same passions: watches and cars. The idea from the beginning was to create unique, non-conformist watches. Extremely exclusive products, with a clear market niche set in collectors and people with high purchasing power. In Steve Clereci’s own words: “Although we are young, we want to create a brand that lasts.”

Rebellion has a character strongly marked by the world of speed. So much so that they have their own racing brand, Rebellion Racing Team, which competes in endurance racing. Founded in 2010, just one year later they won the Le Mans Series team title in the LMP1 category.

Rebellion began to make a name for itself at BaselWorld 2010 by introducing the Rebellion T-1000. An impressive watch with a 1,000 hour power reserve.

In the words of its CEO, “things were not quite right at the beginning.” But they incorporated recognized experts in the design, and in the development of complicated movements. Thanks to these additions, Rebellionhas excelled in recent years creating highly sophisticated watch models that include an amazing regulator, a powerful tourbillon or the Predator chronograph for example. Thanks to this, Rebellionhas found its place in the world of high-end watchmaking.

Since its inception, Rebellionhas collaborated with various automotive and watch groups to create truly unique and intricate watches. Some of the most iconic watch models of the brand would be:

Rebellion T-1000

A watch built for performance, the T-1000 is a fitting tribute to motor racing. Its chassis is precision machined from a single block of titanium. The original and elegant curves of its body completely reveal the elite engine through the sapphire crystal. With a revolutionary patented power distribution system, the T-1000 employs a 1,000-hour power reserve.

This is a special limited edition of only 10 pieces.

Rebellion T-1000

Rebellion T-1000

Rebellion Wep One

Free from traditional form and wear restrictions, Rebellion’s newest watch, the WEAP-ONE, literally breaks the mold. This mechanical work of art, worn on the body or displayed on a board, is not inhibited by existing rules. Suspended between the hour and minute rollers, a 60-second asymmetric flying tourbillon rotates in various axes. This novel and innovative feature allows the tourbillon to challenge the gravitational pull of the earth from all sides. Complete with two wheel nuts, this magnificent piece is truly revolutionary and unique.

This is a special limited edition of only 10 pieces.

Rebellion Weap One

Rebellion Weap One

Rebellion Predator 2.0 Tourbillon

Precision and complexity are at the heart of this movement developed exclusively for Rebellion Timepieces by Telos Watch. The disturbances caused by the gravitational pull of the Earth are compensated for by the tourbillon, displayed at 6 o’clock. Hours and minutes are indicated by two separate counters, while the large hand points to seconds. As for the automatic mechanism, it can achieve a staggering 60-hour power reserve.

This is a special limited edition of only 30 pieces. And at NordWatches we have gotten one. You can see the watch for sale on our website or on the Chrono 24 website where we are Trusted Sellers.

Rebellion Predator 2.0 Tourbillon

Rebellion Predator 2.0 Tourbillon (gold version)

Rebellion Wraith Drive

An intensely impressive motorsport-inspired chronograph, the Wraith Drive unashamedly asserts that it is ambitious for victory. His very DNA is built into every detail. A member of the Rebellion racing team, the Wraith Drive is endowed with exemplary endurance: 48 hours of autonomy.

This is a special limited edition of only 100 pieces.

Rebellion Wraith

Rebellion Wraith

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Patek Philippe – New Models 2020

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Patek Philippe Calatrava Limited Edition
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A-001

Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007A-001

2020 is being a difficult year, even for large companies that have seen their production reduced. The big watch brands are not exception. We have already commented in previous articles that several of the great watchmakers had postponed the launch of their new watches, due to Covid 19. The drop in production and the cancellation of the big events where these types of launches are announced altered the plans of Rolex, Patek Philippe, etc.

But, as happens to all of us, it’s time to adapt to the new times, and move on. Accept that it is going to be a different year and try to get positive things out of it. Following this trend,we already saw that Tudor had been encouraged to launch a new model for this year 2020, and that Rolex is expected to do the same in September.

Well, Patek Philippe has not been left behind and has also released new watches and a couple of reinterpretations of existing models throughout the summer.

Patek Philipe Calatrava Limited Edition (REF. 6007A-001)

The first of them has been the new Patek Philippe Calatrava. A special edition of only 1,000 units that has been launched to commemorate the completion of its new production building located in Pan-les-Ouates.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (5303R-001)

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (5303R-001)

The new Calatrava 6007A-001 stands out for its 40mm case and its wider polished steel bezel. A rare material in the Patek Philippe collections. A blue-gray dial with a central motif, sapphire crystal and white gold hands.

Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Tourbillon (5303R-001)

Patek Philippe continues its habit of creating watches with great complications. This 5303, which was already released in 2019 with a limited edition of 12 pieces, now goes to the regular collection with a slightly modified design.

Made of rose gold, it stands out for its ‘leaf’ decoration engraved on the sides of the bracelet’s handles. A watch without a dial so that you can see the minute repeater in motion, including, for the first time, hammers and bells. You can also see the tourbillon at the bottom of the watch, at the 6 o’clock position.

Reinterpretations of the 5370P-011 and 5270J001

The Patek Philippe Rattrapante 5370 and Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270 watches have received a reinterpretation.

The Rattrapante modifies its aesthetics with a new blue dial and a polished platinum case. Like the other platinum watches from Patek Philippe, the new 5370P-011 has a small diamond set between the lugs of the bracelet at the 6H position.

The 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is manufactured in yellow gold for the first time. Previously we have seen models of this reference in platinum and rose gold. It is fitted with the CH 29-535 PS Q caliber, which is the first perpetual calendar chronograph movement fully developed and manufactured by Patek Phillipe since 2011.

Patek Philippe Rattrapante 5370 and Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 5270

Patek Philippe Rattrapante 5370 and Patek Philippe 5270 Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

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Geneva Seal quality certificate

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Geneva Seal
Geneva Seal

Geneva Seal

The Geneva Seal (Sello de Ginebra in Spanish or Poinçon de Genève in French) is an exclusive quality certificate for movements developed in the Swiss region of the Canton of Geneva.

The first statute of the Geneva Seal was created on November 6, 1886. It was created to protect and preserve the reputation of watches created in the Canton of Geneva. It was established that only watches developed and manufactured in the Canton of Geneva could qualify for this quality certificate.

In addition to certifying that watches have been manufactured in the Canton of Geneva, watch movements must pass 12 stages / conditions in order to be certified. The body in charge of evaluating watches is TIMELAB (an organization that is composed of a certification center (including COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) and a center for research and development).

If the watch movement passes all 12 criteria, the watch may bear the stamp mark engraved on the movement.

Currently the brands that usually certify their movements with the Geneva Seal are: Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis and Vacheron Constantin.

Patek Philippe and Geneva Seal

For 123 years Patek Philippe has been the reference and the greatest defender of the Geneva Seal. But in 2009 he decided to stop certifying his watch movements with the Geneva Seal and created his own quality certificate, the Patek Philippe Seal. The seal is represented by a double P emblem.

Patek Philippe decides to create its own seal of quality for not being in accordance with the current standards of the Geneva Seal. Despite the fact that over the years the criteria of the certificate have been updated and adapted to modern watches, the changes came too late.

Apparently, ‘newly’ arrived brands signed up to use the certificate, such as Cartier or Roger Dubuis, apparently they did not sit too well either. Patek Philippe wanted to toughen the demands of the stamp, but in the face of the refusal by the Geneva Stamp offices, he decided to create his own stamp. In this way, the standards that Patek Philippe adopts go further and are more demanding.

Patek Philippe certifies that its watches with a caliber greater than 20mm have a deviation of less than -3 to +2 seconds / day. For those with a caliber less than 20mm, the deviation should not exceed -5 to +4 seconds / day. For calibers with a tourbillonthe requirement is only -2 to +1 seconds / day.

The standard applied by Patek Philippe for its watches is stricter than the one applied by the COSC in the certification of watches (Rolex is the maximum exponent of the watches certified by the COSC), but it is Patek Philippe itself that gives itself to itself. Its own certificate guaranteeing these standards.

Patek Philippe Seal

Patek Philippe Seal

And what about Rolex?

Rolex is another of the brands that do not certify their watches with the Geneva Seal, either by their own decision or by product philosophy. In addition, Rolex movements are manufactured in Bienne, so in principle they would not comply with the obligation to manufacture them within the Canton of Geneva.

Rolex certifies its watches with the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, created in 1973. It is the largest laboratory dedicated to the certification of watches in the world. Rolex is by far the brand that has certified the most watches with the COSC. The certificate guarantees that the watch has a deviation of less than -4 to +6 seconds / day. Watches that meet this minimum deviation of -4 to +6 seconds / day are certified as ‘Chronometers’ and can have it engraved on their dial. Other brands such as Omega or Breitling also certify their watches with the COSC. Although COSC is the largest laboratory in the world for the certification of watches and certifies one million watches every year, they represent 3% of the watches manufactured annually in Switzerland.

Genève written on the dial

Regardless of the Geneva Seal, some watches have Genèvewritten on their dial. To be able to include Genève on the dial, the watch must be manufactured entirely in Switzerland, and at least 50% of its manufacture must be made in the Canton of Geneva. The Bureau de contrôle des Montres de Genève is the body in charge of certifying and validating the use of this inscription on the watch.

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Rolex – New models for 2020?

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Rolex Daytona Prohunter

2020 is being a difficult year for the big watch brands. Due to the worldwide pandemic of Covid 19, production chains had to be reduced or stopped completely. According to experts, the recession could last for years and be longer than expected. Faced with an incipient economic crisis, the market for luxury items such as high-end watches has exploded. Luxury watches are a safe value to invest in, not only for the manufacturing materials such as gold, platinum, diamonds … but also for the added value of being collectibles, often limited editions. Faced with a volatile market, not only do they retain their value, but they can even increase it.

As we already commented in our article regarding the Covid and the second-hand market, this volatile market situation, plus the lack of stock of new watches due to the stoppage of manufacturing, have also brought price increases in some models of watches.

Demand goes up and stock is limited, so prices rise.

This has not been the case at NordWatches, where not only have we not raised prices, but we are also offering collector’s pieces at more than competitive prices. You can see our stock on our website or on Chrono 24.

As we already mentioned, Baselworld, the fair in which the great watchmakers such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, etc. announce the new models they will launch, was canceled this year 2020. And despite the fact that Rolex initially announced that its 2020 models would go on the market throughout April 2020, they were finally canceled and everything boded that there would be no new models this year 2020.

However, in July Tudor (Rolex’s ‘low cost’ brand) announced a new model, the Tudor Black Bay fifty-Eight Navy Blue. This could indicate that there is still hope for new Rolex models throughout 2020.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 'Navy Blue'

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight ‘Navy Blue’ (Source: www.hodinkee.com)

So can we expect a new Rolex model for this year?

The rumor circulating on the network says that the new Rolex models will be launched the first week of September 2020. We do not know if this will be the case or not, but if so, what models could they advertise? A new Submariner model? Maybe a Milgauss? New ceramic models?

Be that as it may, pay attention to our publications because we will tell you everything here.

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The Covid 19 and luxury watches

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Rolex

The Covid 19 and luxury watches

The coronavirus (Covid 19) has paralyzed the world. The economic impact worldwide is going to be very hard. Little by little we are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel, returning to normal and reopening business, but without the certainty of what will come. The factories reopen their production little by little, with exceptional security measures. But, there are no guarantees that we will not be forced to close again due to the possibility of outbreaks. Until there is a vaccine or the contagion rate worldwide is drastically reduced, we will not fully return to ‘normal’.

Given this uncertainty, markets suffer and the world of luxury and high-end watches are no exception.

The Swiss watch industry returns to work little by little. Despite the fact that in Switzerland the coronavirus has not hit as hard as in other countries, most factories decided to close their doors for security.

In mid-May, the large Swiss brands (Rolex, Patek Philippe, etc.) were already reopening the production of watches, progressively and with reduced equipment.

Big fairs like Baselworld, which was to be held at the end of April, had to be postponed. Even the new scheduled date, January 2021, has been canceled for the time being.

Brands like Patek Philippe or Rolex, announced that they were postponing all their news for 2020, so there will be no new models at the moment.

Many questions and few answers

Many unknowns and atypical situations for a sector that is usually very stable. The worldwide stock of high-end watches has decreased dramatically and although the factories have reopened, they do so at a lower percentage of their production capacity.

2020 is going to be a very bad year for the big luxury watch brands, but what about the second-hand market?

In an article on the Chrono 24 website regarding Covid 19, a world reference in the online sale of luxury watches, we can see that despite the fact that the market suffered when the global pandemic situation was declared, currently it seems that the situation is is normalizing.

In fact, according to this article, and always based on their statistical data, large buyers are taking advantage of this situation to invest. Faced with a more than certain lack of stock of new watches, demand for second-hand watches is likely to increase in the coming months.

In addition, in the absence of news from the major brands, the demand will focus on the great classics.

In conclusion, this can be a great time to invest in high-end watches. Take a look at our stock, and if you do not find what you are looking for, contact us, we can surely help you!

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Chopard L.U.C. Engine One ‘Tourbillon’

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Chopard L.U.C. Engine One Tourbillon

There is a very special relationship between the world of motor and high-end watches. Many special editions of watches were inspired by the motor world, especially in competition. Watches designed by and for racing drivers. Watches that share manufacturing materials such as steel, titanium, carbon, etc. And there are many similarities between the machinery of a mechanical watch and the engine of a racing car. Polished steel, precision, performance, unique features that give character and personality to each other.

This results in watches like this Chopard L.U.C. Titanium Engine One Tourbillon that we are going to talk about today. A limited edition of only 150 pieces. 150 watches symbolizing the 150th anniversary of the brand created by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860 (the watch was manufactured in 2010).

Chopard L.U.C. Engine One Tourbillon Titanium Limited Edition of 150 units

Chopard designed this watch to resemble a high-performance engine block. It has a very smart box design. The exterior dimensions make it a 35.4mm wide by 44mm high rectangle, although the bulging ends give the dial a much rounder appearance.

Made entirely of titanium, the watch has polished surfaces on the top and bottom, with satin-finished center sections. It is an incredibly light case, a presence that images simply cannot adequately convey.

The movement doubles as the dial, and has two textured vertical stripes that look like the top of a large-displacement engine. The L.U.C 1TRM movement is manually wound and is made and designed internally by Chopard. It has an indicator that looks like a fuel reserve indicator, which marks the 60 hours of energy reserve available. It is also among a rare breed of COSC stopwatch certified “Tourbillon” movements, making it simply look like a high-performance engine.

But, perhaps you are wondering, what is the Tourbillon?

The Tourbillon (French Whirlwind) is a clockwork movement created in 1795 by the watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet. It was developed to compensate for the irregular effect that gravity produces on the flywheel and the escapement wheel when the watch remains at rest in the same position for a certain time, especially on pocket watches. It consists of a mechanism that rotates a cage-shaped frame (usually once a minute) on its axis, on which the watch’s steering wheel and exhaust are mounted.

With the rotation of said cage-shaped frame, the effect produced by the force of gravity on the flywheel / exhaust assembly does not always concentrate in the same direction, averaging. This increases the precision of the watch mechanism.

Given the complexity of the mechanism, some brands were not initially able to carry out such a structure, so they were forced to buy the workshops they were already producing for their own products.
Currently, a watch equipped with such a mechanism can be effectively developed only by a few specialized factories.

In 1980 a Tourbillon was first mounted on a wristwatch. Originally conceived as a device to improve precision, Tourbillons are currently included in some high-end modern watches as an exclusive item. The mechanism is usually visible through a window made through the sphere, showing its operation.

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Mechanical watch – 10 tips for maintenance

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A mechanical watch is more than just indicating the time. A mechanical watch is more than just indicating the time. But for this we must perform a good maintenance of its mechanics, as we do for example with cars.

  1. Clean your watch

    Use a soft or microfiber cloth and clean the bracelet and case to remove dirt or dust. Soak the watch in soap and water regularly to soften the dirt. If the watch has a leather strap, you should avoid getting it wet.

  2. Give regular service

    The watch should be serviced every two to three years, regardless of the duration of the warranty. Better to be safe and catch problems before they become a problem. Good maintenance is essential to increase the life of the watch.

  3. Avoid magnets or magnetic fields

    A magnet or a magnetic field can misalign the mechanism of a mechanical watch. High intensity fields are capable of modifying and even stopping the internal mechanism. Today we are surrounded by small magnetic fields, and although they are not normally fields of great intensity, as far as possible it is better to avoid that our watch is close to one.

  4. Know the water resistance of your watch

    Some watch wearers are unaware of the limits of their watch and dive it too deep. If the watch is waterproof up to 50 meters, it is not advisable to take it to dive. If the watch is not designed for great depths, the pressure change will spoil the mechanism. If the watch directly is not waterproof, it can withstand small splashes of water, but it is better to avoid it.

  5. Take care of the glass

    This is pretty obvious, but it’s still important and worth mentioning. Avoid hitting the watch glass against the wall or any other surface. Even a light rub against a material harder than glass can cause scratches.

  6. Keep the original watch box

    When you do not use your watch, if you have a case or display specially designed for the conservation of watches, it is better to keep it in the original box. When placing the watch on its side or on the glass, there is always the possibility of the watch scratching. The watch case is made to keep the watch safe and protected.

    Also, if at any time you want to sell your watch, it will always have a higher value with its original box and documents.

  7. Avoid prolonged exposure to sunlight

    Sunlight can gradually ‘burn’ the color of the watch. Leather or rubber straps also suffer from long exposures to the sun.

  8. Never open your watch

    Leave this to a watchmaker. Opening the watch can expose it to dust, dirt, and other particles that can get into the movement, so it is best to leave this to a professional.

  9. Use it regularly

    Unlike cars, watches are designed to run continuously. That a watch is working is the best way to ensure that its lubricants do not solidify and, consequently, the mechanism is out of adjustment. Do not forget to use every now and then all the watches in your collection.

  10. Read your watch manual

    These guidelines that we comment on are general, but there will always be particularities in each watch that it is better to know so as not to spoil it with misuse or incorrect handling.

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Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ ref. 1680

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Rolex 'Red Submariner' 1680

We could be talking about one of the first Rolex watches to consider Vintage. The Rolex Submariner 1680, known as ‘Red Submariner’ because the word Submariner is printed in red, is one of the most popular and sought-after watches among Rolex collectors.

Rolex began production of the ‘Red Submariner’ ref. 1680 in the year 1969. He was the successor of the Submariner ref. 5513, and its production began 16 years later than that of the first Submariner of 1953.

Rolex 'Red Submariner' 1680 with date and magnifying lens

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ 1680 with date and magnifying lens

First Submariner with date

The ‘Red Submariner’ was the first Submariner to bring the date function. A small window at ‘3 o’clock ‘with a Cyclops magnification lens fixed on its plexiglass glass. By adding this new function to the Submariner, Rolex had to modify the movement. The watch brought the Caliber 1575 inside, which was basically the same as the Caliber 1570 but with the addition of the date function.

Rolex 'Red Submariner' 1680

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ 1680

The first versions of the Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 had the label ‘SUBMARINER’ written in red, hence its nickname ‘Red Submariner’. This was the case until 1973, when Rolex changed the color of the letters ‘SUBMARINER’ that became white. As a result, the Rolex ref. 1680 between 1969 and 1973, with the letters ‘SUBMARINER’ in red became a collector’s item.

Seven variants of the Rolex Submariner 1680

For Rolex collectors it is a really special watch. Not only because of the curiousness of the letters in red, but because, there are 7 variants of this Submariner 1680! They are identified as Mark I to Mark VIII (this adds up to 8 variations, but Mark II and Mark III are classified together due to their similarities).

Mark I, II and III first brought the depth indicated in meters after the red letters of ‘SUBMARINER’.

Rolex 'Red Submariner' Mark I to III

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ Mark I to III

From Mark IV to VI the depth information is modified to first indicate the depth in ‘feet’.

Rolex 'Red Submariner' Mark IV to VI

Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ Mark IV to VI

From the Mark VII the letters ‘Submariner’ become white.

Rolex Submariner 1680 Mark VII to VIII

Rolex Submariner 1680 Mark VII to VIII

The 1680 Submariner came with the bezel inserts in what we now call ‘Fat Font’, that is, with the thickest numbers. The problem with these bezels is that they tend to fade and Rolex replaced these bezels with service bezels with ‘Thin Font’.

Finding a ‘Red Submariner’ with ‘Fat Font‘ is therefore complicated, but these are the rarest and most coveted of all.

At NordWatches we have a Rolex ‘Red Submariner’ watch for sale. Do not miss this unique opportunity to get a watch as special as this one!

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